Thanjavur

I'm in a pretty little town (of 215,000) with a huge temple in Tamil Nadu, now, after an epic bus ride.  Truly, I could write an epic about that bus ride--a baby peed on me an hour into it!  First I was shocked, then uncomfortable, then laughing to myself, because COME ON, that really happened?  That's too travel-story hilarious to be true!  Then I was just uncomfortable again.  But I made it!

I met a nice Australian guy at my first hostel, a haven-like YWCA in Chennai.  When I told him it was my first time in India he said, "Oh, then everything's new!"  Yes, sir.  Everything is completely new.  

Let's start with the head bobbing.  South Indians (at least) don't nod or shake their heads.  They tick-tock them.  Take your head and tilt it to the right, then the left, or start with the left, it doesn't really matter.  Do that again and again and you have the gesture for something.  It might be yes, it might be maybe, sometimes it's definitely been no.  When I really don't want another bite to eat I put my hands up and tick-tock my face and that seems to get across "no mas, por favor."  When I do the same thing with no hands up, they heap it on.

Another novelty has been the auto-rickshaw ride.  This three-wheeled beast has taken me to hell and back, nearly hit many a bus, pulled into three lanes of traffic going the WRONG WAY, and made me realize that you don't have to go to Disneyworld to get a pretty decent roller coaster ride.  You can just go to India.

Finally--for now, because yes, EVERYTHING is new--the food is totally worth writing home about.  I love me some Indian food, and it tastes even better at a buck a plate!  I haven't yet gotten used to eating sour and spicy things for breakfast yet.  I must admit, I crave the Pop-tarts.  But whatcha gonna do?

In response to my fave raving Scot, I'm staying with a buddy from school who's finishing up a year here.  I am eternally grateful to have a friend who knows this place.  We're doing some traveling together before she heads home.  Then I'm on a train to somewhere!